designer: Clover Canyon, photo by: Cheryl Gorski
Traditional Han Chinese Clothing ( Han Fu ) refers to the attire worn by the Han people from the enthronement of the Yellow Emperor (about 2698 BC) till the late Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644 AD). It became known as the Han Fu (“fu” means “clothes” in Chinese) because the fashion was improved and popularized during the Han Dynasty. It is usually in the form of long gown, cross collar, wrapping the right lapel over the left, loose wide sleeves and no buttons but a sash. Although simple in design, it gives different feelings to different wearers. Some basic features are cross-collar, wrapping the right lapel over the left, tying with sash and a form of blouse plus skirt or long gown. These features have been preserved for thousands of years till the time of the Republic of China (1912 – 1949AD), when Chinese Tunic Suit (Mao Suit) and Cheongsam prevailed. Cheongsam is today, the most popular Chinese attire.
Qi Pao originated from the Manchu female clothes; it evolved by merging with western patterns that show off the beauty of the female form. Its features are straight collar, strain on the waist, coiled buttons and slits on both sides of the dress. Materials used are typically silk, cotton and linen.
Traditional Chinese attire have many other features such as appearance, cut, decoration, color and design, all of which changed over the various dynasties. For example, black is the most dignified color in the Xia Dynasty (21st – 17th century BC), white in the Shang Dynasty and red in the Zhou Dynasty. They also vary based on one’s political position, social status, occupation and gender. For instance, dragon embroideries and bright yellow can only be used by emperors most of the time; in the Tang Dynasty (618 – 907 AD), purple official costumes are for the fifth or higher rank officials. During the Qing Dynasty (1644 – 1911 AD), the higher a person’s social rank or the richer one was, the more embroideries and borders there were on his attires.’
This summer you will see the Asian influence with these traditional styles mixed with western modern designs. New York’s Designers that have made a statement in their collections include Anna Sui, BCBG, Clover Canyon, Franchesca, Malan Breton, Tome, Vivienne Tam, and Yuna Yang. Carolina Herrera, Zimmerman, Michael Costello, Pamela Roland, Libertine, Lie Sangbong, Lisa Kelly, Herve Leger, Leah Da Gloria, Angel Sanchez, Carmen Marc Valvo, Chong Cha, Desigual, and Bibhu Mohaotra have also included pieces in their debut at Fashion Week.
AV Trend Spot is a new regular photo feature showcasing the latest fashion trends and photography from Cheryl Gorski, Francis Son, Karen Sterling, Jeana Lindo and Charles Roussel. For more, visit their website at FashionManiac.com. Click on any image below to enlarge, and launch the photo gallery.